April 11, 2015

Analysis, part 2 - Yoke (part 2)

The division-colored yoke was sturdily interfaced, the effect of which was easily observable on several occasions (usually when a character was leaning forward and/or to one side), in addition to its usual smoothness.

VOY, 3x12 "Macrocosm"

VOY, 4x25 "One"

VOY, 1x14 "Faces"

VOY, 2x13 "Prototype"

The yoke was apparently interfaced with a fusible interfacing, as evidence by this screen-used uniform, photographed and shared by "Zipkikr1966":

Thank you so much for sharing, Zip! 

His photo provides us with several pieces of key information: 

    * Only the yoke is interfaced; the yoke facing is not! 

   * The shoulder point may have been interfaced with a different type and/or weight of interfacing than the body yoke; note the white yoke interfacing and the black shoulder point interfacing. 

    * The interfacing extended onto the seam allowances. 

    * A sleeve head was not installed. 

    * Lastly, the area directly beneath the shoulder point's lowest point (the bottom corner - see arrow) could, and perhaps should, be reinforced with a small piece of interfacing to keep it smooth. 

The yoke/yoke facing seam was usually pressed so that the seam line was just inside the neckline (and thus not visible from the outside of the garment), but every now and then, it rolled outward a bit so we could see it:

DS9, 4x2 "The Visitor"

VOY, 1x11 "State of Flux"

VOY, 5x11 "Latent Image"

The yoke facing and seam line were also occasionally visible when characters leaned forward at certain angles.

VOY, 1x16 "Learning Curve"

VOY, 3x4 "The Swarm"

It was particularly easy to spot during the first two seasons of DS9, when the front opening rolled open. 
DS9, 1x5 "Babel"

VOY, 2x3 "Projections"
The yoke/yoke facing seam allowances appeared to be ⅜", although the yoke/body seam allowances seemed considerably larger (perhaps ¾"); impressions of the seam allowances were occasionally visible over the years, probably as a result of over-pressing and/or ironing at higher temperatures than advisable for wool: 

VOY, 1x16 "Learning Curve"

VOY, 6x20 "Good Shepherd"
VOY, 5x1 "Night"

The back yoke/body seam allowances seemed a bit large, too (again, perhaps ¾"):

DS9, 1x20 "In the Hands of the Prophets"

"LtComm" shared a picture of the inside front of his screen-used jumpsuit, which revealed a notably large yoke/body seam allowance: 

(Thanks for sharing, "LtComm!")

To us, if this was common practice, it suggests two possibilities: 

    1 - The front yoke/body seam allowances were pressed open. 


    2 - The yoke was actually adjustable somewhat - that is, it could be moved upward or downward a bit as needed (likely depending on the height of the wearer). Therefore, the yoke's seam allowance was likely consistent, but the body seam allowance varied based on the placement of the yoke. 

If the second possibility was, indeed, the case (and we don't see why it wouldn't be, with the possible exception of a wedge being cut out of the sleeve to accommodate the shoulder point), that means that attaching the yoke would involve the somewhat unusual process of sewing two pieces together with different seam allowances (say, 1" body seam allowance and ⅜" yoke seam allowance). 

The back was constructed differently; note that on both the photos of screen-used shared by "Zipkikr1966" and "LtComm," respectively, the back yoke/body seam allowances are pressed upward and enclosed by the yoke facing! 

Thanks again for sharing, "Zipkikr1966" and "LtComm!"

(Also note that the back yoke/body seam allowance on the uniform "LtComm" shared seem considerably smaller than others - perhaps ½" or ⅝"?) 

Unsurprisingly, shoulder pads were used on these jumpsuits; however, rather than being sewn in, they were attachable and removable via snaps, which were sewn to the yoke facing along the shoulder seam, as evidenced again by photos of screen-used uniforms shared by "Zipkikr1966" and "LtComm," respectively:

PREVIOUS: Analysis, part 1 - Yoke (part 1)

NEXT: Analysis, part 3 - Front Opening

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