April 13, 2015

Tutorial, part 1 - Pattern Pieces

NOTE: This tutorial was originally specifically intended to accompany our Bad Wolf Costumes jumpsuit sewing pattern, but you may, of course, adapt it to other existing patterns or even use it as a basis for drafting your own if you wish. 

On our jumpsuit pattern, unless otherwise noted, all pattern pieces have a ⅜" seam allowance!

The jumpsuit body panels are printed in two separate pieces which need to be joined before cutting. 

While perhaps a tad inconvenient, this was done for two reasons: first, to minimize the price of the pattern (larger pages cost significantly more to print), but, perhaps more importantly, because the upper portion of the back of the DS9/NEM cadet jumpsuit was different than the DS9/NEM and VOY duty jumpsuits, and therefore it would require a different cut prior to construction. 

So, when joining the upper and lower body panels prior to cutting, know that the lower pieces work with all versions, but the DS9/NEM cadet jumpsuit has its own upper back body panel pieces, while the DS9/NEM and VOY duty jumpsuits have theirs. 

In other words, if you want to make the DS9/NEM or VOY duty jumpsuit, attach the appropriate upper body panels to the lower body panels (they're labeled on the pattern).

These can be joined in whatever manner you choose; we like to simply tape them together prior to cutting. 

Note that there is no seam allowance, as there is no seam in the body panels there! 

That said, cut out your pattern pieces. 

Serge all edges of every jumpsuit body piece (body panels, sleeves, and facing). 

We also recommend serging the edges of your elastic waistband channels (piece M).

We recommend marking both the action pleat fold line on the center back (piece F) and the side elastic waistband channel stitch lines on the side body panels (pieces D and E) with chalk on the wrong side of the garment. 

We also recommend marking the action pleat fold line with white (or otherwise contrasting) basting thread. 

Right side

Wrong side

TIP: the fold line is 2 ⅜" from the edge of the piece, so rather than attempting to freehand mark it or use a tracing wheel, you may wish to just use a see-through quilting ruler and draw a line with the hard edge of the ruler as a guide.

Laying the jumpsuit body panel pieces next to each other, you can easily see how the jumpsuit body basically goes together.

Note the chalk markings for the elastic waistband placement and the chalk marking/basting thread for the action pleat fold line.

PREVIOUS: Fabric Notes and "Substitute" Material Options

NEXT: Tutorial, part 2- Yoke Assembly

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