April 13, 2015

Tutorial, part 2 - Yoke Assembly

Fuse the interfacing to the front yokes (piece A), back yoke (piece B), and shoulder points (piece H). 

Serge all edges except the neckline and front opening. 

NOTE: Unless you use two different types of fusible interfacing, we know of no reason to use white/clear interfacing on the yoke and black interfacing on the shoulder points. We only did on our tutorial jumpsuit yoke because the originals appear to have for some reason. 

Trim ⅜" from the bottom edges of the front yoke facing. 

Serge all edges of the yoke facing except the neckline and front opening. 

NOTE: We recommend serging both the yoke and yoke facing using division-color serger threads, or at least something in a similar color range (i.e. overlock a gold yoke with gold thread). Again, we only used black thread on our tutorial jumpsuit because the originals apparently did, but the only advantage we see to this is you save a bit of time by not having to change your serger threads during the construction process.

Sew the front yoke (piece A) to the back yoke (piece B) at the shoulder seam. 

Press the shoulder seam open, ideally using a seam roll to avoid making impressions of the seam allowances on the right side of the yoke. 

Repeat for other side. 

Repeat for yoke facing. 

As you can see, the bottom edge of the front of the yoke facing assembly should be ⅜" higher than the corresponding bottom edge of the front yoke assembly. 

Sew the yoke facing assembly to the yoke assembly along the neckline and front opening, right sides facing. 

Trim the seam allowances around the corner of the front opening and clip the seam allowances around the neckline. 

Turn the yoke assembly right sides out. 

At first it might look kind of yucky, but don't panic! 

Use a tailor's corner turner to get the front opening corners nice and crisp and gently press any puckers smooth. 

Set the yoke assembly aside for now.

NOTE: For our tutorial jumpsuit, we used front opening option #1 - that is, the yoke's front opening is cut straight (not angled away from center). Regardless of which front opening option you choose, though, the yoke assembly process is the same. 

PREVIOUS: Tutorial, part 1 - Pattern Pieces

NEXT: Tutorial, part 3 - Front Body

No comments:

Post a Comment