April 13, 2015

Tutorial, part 4 - Back Body

Sew the center back body panel (piece F) to the side back body panel (piece E). 

While sewing the uppermost portion of these two pieces together, the center back will need to be rotated slightly so the edges of the action pleat properly align. 

This is most easily accomplished by sewing the two together with the center back body panel on top, simply moving the excess out of the way when pivoting at the bottom of the action pleat. 

Clip both layers diagonally at the bottom corner of the action pleat to the pivot line.

Press the seam allowances open beneath the action pleat. 

Press the action pleat toward the center back along the fold line. 

On the underside of the pleat, you can see the fold line pressed.

Here's what the "finished" pleat should look like from the right side. 

Note that the top edges should be flush, and there should be no contortions or puckers. 

If the fabric is "warbly" around the bottom of the action pleat, massage it with a bit of steaming and pressing until it's smooth. 

Pin or baste the action pleat closed for now. 

Repeat for the other side. 

Sew the two back halves together along the center back. 

Press seam allowances open. 

Sew the spandex panel to the inside of the jumpsuit alongside the centermost edges of the action pleat. 

Baste or sew the top of the action pleats and spandex panel to the top of the jumpsuit. 

We recommend basting several times: ¼" from top, ½" from top, ¾" from top, and 1" from top. This is to keep the spandex from stretching as much, both during this basting/sewing and when attaching the yoke later. 

We also recommend reinforcing the stitch over each action pleat several times. 

At this point, you may remove the pins and/or any basting thread (such as on the action pleats' fold line). 

TIP: Pin thoroughly and sew slowly, as the spandex will probably want to stretch toward you as the garment moves away from you as you sew, leaving you with unnecessary excess at the end of the stitch, which is both unsightly and runs the risk of pulling or contorting the action pleat unnecessarily.

PREVIOUS: Tutorial, part 3 - Front Body

NEXT: Tutorial, part 5 - Yoke to Body

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