April 13, 2015

Tutorial, part 6 - Shoulder Point onto Sleeve

Stay-stitch the lower corner at the top of the sleeve (piece I), where the shoulder point will be attached, ⅜" from the edges, and clip the sleeve vertically from the corner to the stay-stitch's pivot point.

Sew the shoulder point (piece H) to the sleeve, right sides facing. 

NOTE: For your convenience, we have included two shoulder point options for the VOY jumpsuit sleeves: one with ease, and one without ease. If you're unpracticed at easing sleeves, or if you simply hate the process (like we do), you may simply cut the DS9/NEM shoulder point with seam allowance (noted on the printed pattern) and disregard the quilt lines. We've observed no advantage to having shoulder point ease on these uniforms, but the screen-used uniforms' shoulder points appeared to have some ease, so we've included that option as well. 

TIP: With the shoulder point on top, stitch to the pivot line (you can mark this with chalk, a disappearing ink fabric marker, or even a pin), and stop with the needle still in the fabric. Lift the presser foot and rotate the sleeve so that the other sleeve edge is flush with the other edge of the shoulder point, lower the presser foot, and continue stitching.

Once you've sewn the shoulder point onto the sleeve, it may initially look something like this:

And you'll feel like this: 

But don't worry! A sleeve even this "bad" can be salvaged with very little effort, and we'll show you how.

Notch the shoulder point seam allowances at the bottom of the shoulder point. 

From the wrong side, steam and press the area directly beneath the corner of the shoulder point. 

If steam doesn't get the job done, you may want to lightly spray a bit of water on the area and press it again. 

See how much better it already looks? 

Press the shoulder point/sleeve seam allowances open. 

As a finishing touch, we recommend interfacing the area directly beneath the bottom corner of the shoulder point to keep it looking nice, flat, and crisp. 

Cut a small, rectangular piece of lightweight or midweight fusible interfacing (about 2" x 1" or so). 

We recommend cutting it with pinking shears ("pinking" it), thus minimizing the effect of strong, linear imprints on the right side of the garment where the edges of the interfacing are, better obscuring them. 

Make sure the fabric area beneath the shoulder point is wrinkle-free, then fuse the interfacing strip to the wrong side of the sleeve. We recommend placing one of the pinked wedges directly beneath the bottom corner of the shoulder point, as high as possible.

Here's a photo of the same sleeve as above after notching the shoulder point seam allowances, thoroughly steaming and pressing the area beneath the shoulder point, pressing the shoulder point/sleeve seam allowances open, and fusing pinked interfacing beneath the shoulder point. 

For "regular" sleeves, repeat for other side and skip ahead to the next step. 

For vented sleeves, fold the sleeve hem upward and press. 

Sew or baste the hem allowance to the sleeve along the sleeve sides and pin the upper edge into place. 

Hand sew the upper edge of the hem allowance to the sleeve. 

Repeat for other side.

NOTE: The sleeve, as it is on the pattern, has 4" hem allowance, which is generous, to say the least - double the 2" hem allowance sleeves usually have. This was done for two reasons: first, to provide the widest range of potential hems for the costumer, and second, so that the hem would extend all the way to the top of the sleeve vent on the vented sleeves.
The process of constructing the vented sleeve does not require 4" hem allowance to work properly!
Whether you are constructing "regular" or vented sleeves, you may reduce the hem allowance if you wish; if you do so, we recommend reducing it to the standard 1 ½" or 2".

Hand sew the upper edge of the hem allowances into place. 

You should now have two (otherwise) finished sleeves, huzzah! 

(Vented sleeve pictured)

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